This high canyon has so much climbing and bouldering it will blow your mind. The canyon is a great place for beginner climbers because there are a lot of low-angle sport routes set in a nice scenic environment. The majority of climbs fall in the beginner or advanced range with few 5.8-5.10's. The South Platte River flows through the canyon passing all the activity (fishing is very popular here) as this is a popular place and can be crowded.
There is a good mix of sport and trad routes and infinite bouldering so come to stay for a while if you can. The temperature is quite cool here, cooler than anywhere in the front range, and camping fills up very early so plan accordingly. Due to the water through the canyon there are a lot of bugs and repellant is a must. This is a state park and there is a $4 day pass fee per car.
Details
Location
Mueller State Park 30 minutes west from Colorado Springs
Rock Type:
Granite
Hazards:
Bugs, wind, cold
Routes:
Lifetime
Season:
Spring to fall
Map + Directions
Basic Directions
From Colorado Springs head west on HWY 24 towards Lake George (past Divide). Look for a blue road sign for County Road 96 and head south for a mile to the canyon entrance.
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